For once Dave Graham has a couple of weeks back home in Maine. During his two weeks there he managed to go climbing 4 different days the whole time. The temperature was hovering around the 5 degree-mark Fahrenheit in the blazing sun, and with the wind chill in the shade, they were facing -10, „to make an understatement, we were cold!!“ To put the situation into perspective, the place they were climbing at was four hours away, in Connecticut, and Dave´s car heater was broken… „FUCKING COLD. MISERY!“ This is the same place where Joe K put up his new 8B Serendipity movement. So, in two hours of actuall climbing everyday, Dave managed the following: The first day: New 8B called Serendipity Moment, direct finish to Joe´s Serendipity Movement. The direct finish was an existing problem called Busted Shadow, 8A+, which he also did in some tries, after putting up the more complete full problem (essentially, the original problem Busted Shadow was just the finish Serendipity Moment, which starts sitting where Serendipity Movement starts. Did you get that?) Second day: Serendipity movement, 8B Third day: New 8B+ on the same wall, which he was really psyched about, in two days, that he calls The Book of Bitter Aspects. „Really brilliant tall, stand start, whichgoes straight out this huge wall, maybe an 8 meter boulder, it breaks down to a sick hard 8B+ish two move sequence with a REALLY hard stand into a bad undercut, on steep terrain, directly into a big tall 7B+ finish, which is exciting, and pumpy, and when it´s cold, like fucking deadly cold, its really mind numbingly freezing, AHHHHHHHHH-THE PAIN, that´s what it feels like.“The sameday he also put up a sit start to an original unrepeated 8A, which is cooler from the sit at 8A+, Devil Eyes. Fourth day: On his last day there, he onsighted this really long 8A+ problem. It´s been confirmed at 8A+, and Dave thought it was „fucking heinous“. „It´s like 6 desperate crimp moves in 4 meters on bad edges on one side of a prow, then like endless up climbing at 7B+ or something, maybe 6 meters. The hardest thing i have ever done first try on a boulder.“ Dave also says he now feels stronger than he has in six months, and that he´ll soon be back in France again.
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