Gresham & MacLeod Comment on Indian Face

It´s not often that somebody gets on Indian Face so it´s bound to be noticed when it happens. Dave MacLeod´s decision last week not to go for the lead after practising it on a top rope made some big headlines. Neil Gresham who made the third and last ascent of the route has sent us the following message: After Dave MacLeod´s recent comment on Indian Face, I just wanted to put in a good word for one of my favourite routes. I didn´t consider it to be snappy and I don´t recall Nick or Johnny saying so either. I guess future suitors can consider both views and make up their own mind. Dave´s has posted on his blog some more thoughts on the route. Below is a summary, you can read the full account on Dave MacLeod´s Blog>> (In reply to Neil) ..Neil didn?t find it snappy, I guess because nothing must?ve snapped on him! A part of a hold snapped on me while I was working the moves just before the RP cluster which would?ve been a 80 foot groundfall for me had I been leading at the time. Meaningless death is not cool. Of course dealing with loose rock is all part of the game of climbing. Part of the normal everyday headpoint process is getting a sequence that allows for more careful use of creaky or thin holds. As routes go I agree with Neil that this one isn?t actually that snappy. There were just two or three holds that were a bit worrying, especially the ?brittle spike? that Dawes mentions in his account of the first ascent.Indian Face is an excellent climb overall and the snappyness was a minor issue compared to the aesthetics for me. I wasn?t that psyched to spend another day going back up there to lead it when it wasn?t really that enjoyable moves for me… It would be cool to climb the route just for the history attached to it and the awesome experiences the previous climbers have had on this wall. But I?d never climb something you could die on just for the sake of a climbing cv or following others. How stupid would that be! I also like to save the times when I really stick my neck out for climbs that push my limit. The reasoning behind leading a top end route is a very personal thing and the decision to say no is just as hard as saying go. What is maybe more impressive is that the UK has a number of climbers operating and repeating the high end routes. You can read the original comments from Dave at the original planetFear story here>>

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