MacLeod Climbs Direct Finish to Requiem

Dave MaCleod, surely now the UK´s finest all round climber, in fact a strong contender for the world crown, has climbed the direct finish to Requiem at Dumbarton Rock. Requiem, established in 1983 by Dave Cubby Cuthbertson was the first F8a+ in the world. He actually led it on trad gear and graded is E7 7a. Current accepted thought is that it is F8a+ or E8 6b on pre-placed wires. Dave climbed Requiem a number of years ago having taken inspiration from the line on his first ever visit to the imposing crag. Since then it is no secret that he has had his eye on the direct finish, having been on and off it (literally) over the last 2 years. In fact at the Kendal Film Festival in 2005 Dave gave a slideshow during which he gob-smacked the audience with footage of the 50 foot fall onto trad gear. All in all, prior to the successful ascent Dave took the fall at least ten times. Paul Diffley from Hotaches.com was there for most of it with his camera so you can expect a pretty significant film very soon. Dave making his original ascent of Requiem. As for the grade. It´s being suggested on various internet forums that E11 may at last have been breached. We´ll keep you posted with photos and more comment as soon as we can. ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – matt@planetfear.com / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–

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