Madagascar Repeats

John and Anne Arran, Gaz Parry, Giles Cornay and Jerry Gore have just returned from a 5 week trip to Madagascar. Below is a summary of what they got up to out there: Tsaranoa Massif: Out of Africa 550m, 16 pitches up to 7a. Climbed by all five team members. Always the sun, 8 pitches up to 7c+. Climbed by all five team members, but only Gaz tried the top (crux) pitch, which he onsighted impressively. (This was the route put up by Grant Farquar, Steve Mayers, Twid and Louise Thomas in 1999, and was probably the second ascent.) Rain Boto, 10 pitches up to 7b. Gaz and John onsight. La Crabe aux Pinces D?Or, 11 pitches up to 7b+. Gaz and John both onsight. All followed. Did not climb easier top pitches. Pectorine, 7 pitches up to 6b+/A0. Anne and John onsight. Gondwanaland, 20 pitches up to 7c. All. John redpointed crux. Climbed in 2 teams over 2 days each. Rebolted all belays and replaced some ageing bolts on some pitches. Anne following pitch 16, 7a+, of Gondwanaland. Courtesy of John Arran / thefreeclimber.com Northern Limestone/Islands Many high quality single-pitch routes. The most notable achievement was Gaz?s redpoint of the hardest route in the country (Les Naufrages Du Rhum – 8b), which we heard may possibly have been the first clean redpoint of the route. Also of note was John´s flash of the second hardest route on the islands (Tafo Masina, 8a), the route?s fourth ascent. Gaz on the Les Naufrages Du Rhum, 8b, with John belaying. Courtesy of Anne Arran / thefreeclimber.com John and Anne would like to thank Arc?teryx, Boreal and Edelrid for their generous trip support. ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – matt@planetfear.com / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–

Ähnliche Beiträge:

[VIDEO] Ian Dory's STRONG [VIDEO] Alex Honnold free solo in “El Sendero Luminoso” [VIDEO] Jochen Perschmann in “Mensch und Maschine” (FB 8b+) Harald Röker macht Fatman