It wouldn´t be a hard grit route if it didn´t have Neil „Equilibrium“ Bentley on it; he recently whizzed over to Ramshaw Rocks to repeat Seb Grieve´s Clippity Clop (E8 6c), which he says was „brilliant“ but probably easier for the tall: „It´s a huge block with a rounded arete which becomes very thin until you end up with your legs either side of it and pinching.. then it turns into a layback which is very airy. You wouldn´t want to fall off there.“ A Friend 6 protects the hardest moves – but when Seb did it in 1991 they didn´t make Friends that big. „Scary,“ says Neil. But he reckons it´s easier for tall folk (such as himself); Nick Dixon, who was with him, tried it too but found the reach hard. Neil reckons though that there have been more repeats since he did it – which was three weeks ago. (OK, we´ve been slow reporting. He´s a shy lad.) Don´t expect too much more grit news from Neil: he´s aiming to do lots of sport climbing this year (some 8cs would be nice, he reckons). „It all got a bit trad-y last year,“ he says. Yeah, but we liked the photos.


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