Red Bull to Sponsor Bouldering Event in Austria What happens when a large commercial sponsor gets involved with a bouldering competition? Interesting things… On Saturday 1st September, a Red Bull sponsored bouldering event will take place in the city of Vienna. What is different with this comp is that (according to the press release) the climbing will take place on real rock that has been imported from various countries. From what we can gather, rock will be coming from the Ukraine, Brazil, USA, Australia and Morocco for the event and that each rock will be prepared by an ´artist´. What this actually means is unclear but it could be anything from a sculpturer, grafitti artist or a man with a chisel. At this point you may think that this event is pretty surreal but it gets better. The competition will be judged by the climbers themselves and various awards will be presented for (in no particular order): Slickest Move Award, Best Style Award, One Hand / No Hand Award & the Best Overall Performance. The event is invitational and will comprise of 20 competitors (10 men & 10 women) including Kilian Fischuber, Angela Eiter and David Lama. As this is from a press release, we´re taking it all with a slight pinch of salt but it will be interesting to see how the event is received by both the climbers and those watching. Maybe it will give the BMC some ideas. Anyone for the British Bouldering Championships to be held in Piccadilly Circus and sponsored by Coca-Cola? Source: Euroclimbing.com Lamiche Climbs New 9a Tony Lamiche has climbed a new 9a, ´San Ku Kai´ in Entraigues which is situated in the Briancon area. Normally that´s all you would hear regarding a new route but Cedric Larcher from kairn.com has sent us this short interview with Tony. Kairn : Who bolted San ku Kai? Tony : It?s a nice line bolted by Yann Ghesquiers. We are lucky to have him because he bolts a lot of routes. Without him we would not have any more hard routes to climb. Kairn : What is the style of this route? Tony : It?s really hard, resistance, not really my style. It?s 20 moves long with compresions in a big roof or better a big big overhanging wall. A lot of heels for a boulder style route with resistance. Kairn : Do you grade it ??Tony : If it?s not 9a it cannot be less.Kairn : Were you the only one trying the route? Tony : No, Diego (Yann Ghesquiers) and Olivier Fourbet are also trying it a lotKairn : Did you spend a lot of time on it? Tony : I had attempts all over the winter, even during the TAB. I gave all what I could to do it. I probably made around 50 attempts. Kairn : Why such an interest for this route? Tony : It was my last hard route in the area. And I nearly thought I wouldn?t tick it.Kairn : What will you do now? Will you move? Tony : No, I will just lay tiles in my house, so I will stay in the Briançon area. I still have routes to do, less difficult but as lovely.Kairn : Your projects? Tony : Beginning of September, I will leave for the US for a 2 and a half months bouldering trip. I will go to Kentucky, at Red River Gorge, where I will join some great climbers such as Daniel Woods for bouldering. Then I will go to the Rocky Mountain National Park (RMNP) and then to Bishop. Three weeks for each place
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| Tony Lamiche on his new 9a Ph by Francois Lombard |
Source: http://www.kairn.comTony´s Website : http://tonylamiche.info/Tony is part of the Beal Team http://www.bealplanet.com/
