The World Dyno Records were broken and equalled at the weekend at the planetFear competition at the Outdoors Show in Birmingham. Both winners were over for the European bouldering competition that was also being held at the Outdoors Show. Edyta Ropek from Poland, aged 27, jumped 2m 17.5cm to set a new women?s record whilst Sergii Topishko from Ukraine, aged 18, jumped 2m 70cm to equal the world record. Sergii went for a new world record jump at 2m 75cm and was literally a fingertip away from catching the finishing jug. The whole competition was watched by a large crowd enthralled by the massive distances covered. Edyta and Sergii were awarded £100 prize money, provided by planetFear and Climb magazine.Note that the official Guinness World Records are, we understand, still held by Katherine Schirrmacher and Matt Heason. See notes below on how to organise an official Guinness World Record. Edyta Ropek. Photo courtesy of Alex Messenger / BMC Dyno competitions are becoming more and more popular. Back in 2002 The Edge Climbing Centre in Sheffield arranged the very first officially ratified Guinness World Dyno Competition. As far as we are aware none of the competitions since then have completely fulfilled the criteria necessary to break the ´Guinness´ world record. The criteria, for those interested in organising such a competition, are detailed below: BOARD CRITERIA FOR WORLD RECORD ATTEMPTS 1) Angle of the board is 20 degrees ± 0.25 degrees. This gives ± 5mm of overhang for every 1000mm of vertical height. 2) The reference point for all dimensions is the centreline of the fixing hole of the left hand handhold. 3) The tolerance for any main fixing hole for handholds, footholds or target hold when measured from the reference point is ± 1.5mm. 4) The main fixing holes are 12mm diameter with a M10 ?T? nut in the back of the hole. 5) The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are directly below the main fixing holes in a perpendicular plane and are 12mm diameter but do not require any ?T? nuts. 6) The main fixing holes for the target hold are spaced 25mm apart on a line at 45 degrees leftwards from the reference point. The first hole is 1500mm from the reference point and the holes must extend a minimum of a further 1500mm. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 100mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane. 7) The main fixing holes for the handholds are 200mm apart in a horizontal plane. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 100mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane. 8) The main fixing holes for the footholds are 200mm apart in a horizontal plane and are directly below the fixing holes for the handholds in a perpendicular plane. The top holes are 500mm down from the reference point with further fixing holes spaced at 200mm giving dimensions of 700mm, 900mm and 1100mm from the reference point. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 50mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane. 9) The angle of the board and all dimensions must be independently checked and verified. HANDHOLD CRITERIA FOR WORLD RECORD ATTEMPTS 1) To ensure that a world record attempt is valid, the original holds used to establish the existing world record must be used. These are available from Bendcrete. 2) The anti-rotation pegs must be in place as these also keep the orientation of the holds in the correct position. 3) The holds must not be altered in any way as this will invalidate the attempt. MEASURING THE DISTANCE JUMPED 1) The distance jumped is measured from the centreline of the reference point fixing hole to the centreline of the main fixing hole for the target hold. 2) To help with the measurement of each attempt, draw centrelines at 90 degrees to the centreline of main fixing holes for the target hold and write the dimension next to this line. If this is done correctly then the square right hand corner of the target hold will fall on this line making the measurement an easy task. Sufficient room will have to be left so that the hold does not cover up the dimensions. 3) Due to the set-out criteria of the board, all record attempts will be in increments of 25mm. Example ? 2625mm. No other increments will be accepted. WORLD RECORD CLAIMS 1) All attempts at the world record must take place during official competitions. 2) At least two judges and two independent witnesses must verify the wall criteria and the measurement of the record attempts. Written statements will be required as evidence along with photographs and/or video footage. Ideally, the judges and witnesses should have some official status such as centre managers, official body representatives (BMC for example) or be accredited international judges. BASIC COMPETITION RULES 1) Both starting handholds must be used with the left hand on the left handhold and the right hand on the right handhold. No crossed hands will be allowed. 2) Any configuration of footholds can be used but feet must not touch the starting handholds. 3) An attempt is successful when the competitor hangs the target hold in control with both hands.
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