Fowler, Sustad, Turnbull – New Cornish Shale Horrors

Dave Turnbull following pitch two of the Cushion Man – reclipping the gear to protect the next climber.UKC News, Jun 2010© Mick Fowler

The serious third pitch of The Cushion ManUKC News, Jun 2010© Dave TurnbullAdventure aficionados Mick Fowler, Steve Sustad and Dave 'BMC' Turnbull have been out climbing tottering piles of shale on the Cornish coast.The trio had planned a trip to Cape Wrath, the north west tip of Scotland, but the weather forecast caused them to change direction and head to Cornwall.”The main route we ended up doing in Cornwall was in the classic vein of shale test pieces like Breakaway and Slippery Mhic.” said Dave, describing their new route The Cushion Man (XS).The Cushion Man, 240ft, XS 5a, 5b, 5a, Cam Beak Head, North CornwallFirst Ascent:  19 June 2010, Mick Fowler, Steve Sustad & Dave Turnbull (led P1-3 in that order)The Cushion Man tackles a previously unclimbed shale headland near Crackington Haven.”It has amazing folded rock architecture; the shale deteriorates with height culminating in a 120ft rising traverse beneath some capping roofs.” explained Dave.Mick Fowler lead pitch one, a steep and juggy affair on “pretty solid rock”. Steve Sustad took pitch two which involved “lots of grim on sight cleaning, a few points of aid plus a very scary pull through an overhang.” This pitch was seconded free by Turnbull, who then led the serious third pitch with a few marginal pegs and a “good warthog” providing the protection.”Strangely we discovered a bolt that looked 5-10 years old on the cliff top near where we abbed in ? it's possible this was placed geologists rather than climbers.” said Dave.The following day Turnbull and Fowler climbed another new route on Bukator, which went at a surprisingly amenable HVS 4a, 4c, 4b – the crux of which was the abseil approach from a threaded rabbit hole!Photo Gallery: A lovely holiday in Cornwall

Mick Fowler leading pitch one of The Cushion Man XSUKC News, Jun 2010© Dave Turnbull
Steve Sustad leading, Mick Fowler belaying, pitch two of The Cushion Man XSUKC News, Jun 2010© Dave Turnbull
Mick Fowler enjoying an ice cream on a typical Cornwall HolidayUKC News, Jun 2010© Dave Turnbull
Dave and Mick on the top of Bukator CliffUKC News, Jun 2010© Dave Turnbull

Diesen Artikel inkl. Bilder auf anschauen