Malcolm Smith – New Anvil F8c+ – More Info

[Missing photo!]A few days ago UKC reported that Malcolm Smith made the first ascent of Blood Diamond (F8c+) on the Anvil, Argyll. (see UKC News).Malc thinks Blood Diamond is the hardest route at the Anvil and at hard F8c+ it weighs in as one of the hardest in Scotland.Speaking by email to UKC, Malcolm said:”Blood Diamond is a route I'd spent a few days on a couple of years ago but failed to stick with. This year I returned with renewed motivation and I climbed it relatively quickly. It's a great line which climbs straight up the centre of the crag at its steepest, most sustained point.I was unsure of the grade but it's a bit harder than the Anvil's other 8c+ 'Metal Core' which I repeated a couple of years ago. It's probably similar in difficulty to Hubble but it falls a little short of the difficulty of Steve's [McClure] routes in Yorkshire, to which I must return, fuel prices permitting!” Malcolm has been down in Yorkshire having a look at various routes including the F9a Rainshadow – pictured below.

Malcolm Smith on Rainshadow F9a at MalhamUKC News, Mar 2010© Keith Sharples

Dave MacLeod is no stranger to the Anvil and made the first ascent of Body Blow, which is the F8b+ finish to Malcolm's new route. He commented on Malc's ascent:”It's great to hear Malc got this project done. It's a superb piece of climbing and got to be a pretty hard tick at 8c+ unless Malc found an easier sequence. But I suspect rock crushing strength was the solution to hanging that non existent left-hand sidepull.”Malcolm Smith has been at the cutting edge of British sport climbing and bouldering for many years now – back in 1992 he ticked the famous route Hubble (F8c+) at Raven Tor – aged just 18.More recently (2008) he made the first ascent of Gut Buster (Font 8b+) at Dumbarton rock.You can see Malc in action in the video below:Malcolm Smith is sponsored by Scarpa and Moon and Wild Country Diesen Artikel inkl. Bilder auf anschauen