Moderate Classics in Alaska

by Mick Ryan The Ruth Gorge, Alaska Range, Alaska has been the place to be this season and we have run several news reports at about adventures in this wonderful area. have several more reports First off Renan Ozturk and Cedar Wright climbed The Stump Man (aka The Brown Finger, IV 5.11, 1,500´) and Ballad of a Dead Soldier (V 5.10+). Cedar reports on Ballad of a Dead Soldier, “direct line up a 1,500-foot golden headwall pillar with numerous finger-sized splitters streaking up its face….encountering world-class stemming and fingercrack climbing, with bomber Stoppers and thin cams.” Full report at this page Raphael Slawinski reports of much fun on the Kahiltna Glacier where with partner, Pierre Darbellay, they established a moderate classic, Le Voyage au Bout de La Nuit” (Journey to the End of the Night: WI4+ R, 450 m) Full report at this page If you feel inspired enough to plan a trip, this is the guidebook to get, Alaska Climbing by Joseph Puryear. Full details at and it was also reviewed at by Andy Saxby, here ( Source: Alpinist )