Der Japaner Dai Koyamada sichert sich die 7te Begehung von Action Directe

Dai Koyamada

 Begünstigt durch den Goldenen
Herbst herrschen derzeit in der Fränkischen beste Verhältnisse und so
wurde die Action Directe (9a) binnen einer Woche gleich zweimal
wiederholt. Zum einen durch den Briten Rich Simpson und nun vom Japaner
Dai Koyamada, der im Laufe der Jahre schon das ein oder andere Mal in
der Route war.

Nachfolgend dazu und zur Begehung von Rich ein paar Details von Ben Moon:

Dai Koyamda make 7th Ascent of Action Direct

Well
if you have just read Rich's report below you will know that the
Japenese climber Dai was pretty close to repeating Action Directe. Well
now he has!

It’s very funny because I just called Rich about a
half hour ago and he answered the phone in a whisper and told me that
Dai had just set off on his redpoint attempt! Neither Rich nor I said
anything for a few seconds then Rich goes “He’s just arrived at the
last move…he's done it”. Then I just heard loads of screaming from Dai
coming down the phone. Dai just got the 7th ascent.

2 repeats in
a week. 7 in total. Sounds like it's just become a trade route! Very
interesting to hear Rich say it's only 11 moves long. This is quite a
bit shorter that a many boulder problems and certainly way less moves
than the sequence that Wolfgang and I used.
Ben Moon

Read about Rich Simpsons sucessful ascent of Action Direct.

About
Action, I was pretty lucky to get the 6th ascent to be honest, both me
and Dai were very close and the day before my ascent he fell at the
very last move which motivated me to get it done the day after. He will
go back on Saturday and to be honest I will be surprised
if he doesn’t climb it. But it’s always great to hold your
own against a world class climber on mutual ground.

I
had a real battle with Action the conditions have been bad and it’s
been really hard to stay motivated whilst sitting around waiting for it
to become better. On Tuesday I finally got some good conditions and
took some tries but took a very nasty fall and slammed in sideways into
the lower wall, badly bruising my heel and hip bone and also cutting
open my leg. So it was hard to once again pick myself up from that and
keep spirits high.

On Wednesday I watched Dai trying and he got so so
close which gave me more pressure to know that if I didnt do it
Thursday he will climb it before me. Thursday morning came and so
did the frost, the conditions truly where perfect. I took a warm up go
and everything went well, so attempted to climb from the first jug to
the end, falling in the very last jump. 10 minutes rest, first redpoint
in 35 seconds and 11 moves it was over and I climbed the easy wall to
the top.

One year’s hard work successful and so much learnt in the
progress. Redpointing is such a funny thing, so so stressful and hard work yet on completion it all feels worth it.

Thanks
a lot for your help over the last year or so, you truly are an
inspiration for me and I’m so glad to be able to speak about my
successes with you.

Richard Simpson

Begeher der Action Directe:

  1. Wolfgang Güllich
  2. Alexander Adler
  3. Iker Pou
  4. Dave Graham
  5. Christian Bindhammer
  6. Richard Simpson
  7. Dai Koyamada

Siehe auch:
www.moonclimbing.com
www.FreakClimbing.com
Der Brite Richard Simpson wiederholt Action Directe
Interview mit Rich Simpson

 

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QuelleText: MoonClimbing, Foto: Hannes Huch