Weekly Roundup

A large rockfall occurred on 11/08/06 at the Dewerstone (South Dartmoor) significantly affecting the HVS 3 star regional classic – Climbers Club Direct. Source & more info: BMC Young Guns Blazing: 8a.nu report that 13 year old American Sasha Digiulian has just redpointed a f8a+ route in Maple Canyon, whilst Polish 9 year old Piotr Schab has done his first f7c+! Meanwhile, no stranger to hard routes 13 year old Czech, Adam Ondra has climbed his 5th f8c+… Ricky Bell as added another big new route to Fair Head in Northern Ireland: Way of the Jive Monkeys   36m   **   E6 (6b) R Bell, E Barbour. 13/08/2006. A bold route at the top end of its grade. From the belay of Wall of Prey climb 3m up the groove then step down and right into an obvious corner. Arrange as much gear as possible then jive your way round the corner onto the face. Follow small holds up to a hard move right for a sloping ramp below a huge triangle in the wall above. A poor runner at the top of the ramp and some thoughtful moves past a wobbly jug lead to a good rest and good wires. Layback the crack above until a delicate move can be made onto the sloping ledge out left and welcome jugs above. (Note: climbed onsite after cleaning. No moves prepractised.) Photo and route description courtesy of Fairheadclimbers ———————————————————————– If you have any news worth reporting please contact Matt – matt@planetfear.com / 0114 2969114 ———————————————————————–