Brits Grab The Baroness

L to R Matt Dickinson, Airlie Anderson, Tom Briggs, Lucy Creamer, and Niall Grimes Below: Niall Grimes and the Baroness A strong British team consisting on Airlie Anderson, Tom Briggs, Lucy Creamer, Matt Dickinson, Niall Grimes and Ian Hey have just returned from the increasingly popular area of Southern Greeland with some incredible new routes to show for it The objective of the expedition was to free climb ´The Baroness´, a 600 metre unclimbed granite cliff, the only information on which being a photograph provided by Matt Dickinson, and three weeks to get it done. Arriving by boat in Torssuqaatoq sound on 8th of July, the team set about climbing three lines in pairs, fixing ropes to a point where a summit push was feasible. The photograph had given the impression of a heavily featured wall, which the team hoped would give way to awesome free climbing on a spectacular face. This only proved to be the case on the right hand side, with the central section being extremely overhanging and having featureless sections more suitable for hard aid climbing. With four days of inching up the wall to an assumed halfway point the summit was in reach.Lucy Creamer on pitch 13 of ´Venus Envy´ First to reach the summit was Airlie Anderson and Lucy Creamer. After a sustained 22 hour effort they topped out of ´Venus envy´, an amazing 15 pitch E4/5 6a which followed a steep crack and groove system on the right side of the face to the summit. The following days (15th and 16th July) saw Matt Dickinson and Tom Briggs climb a line to the left ´The Iron Lung´ at E6 6b/ A1, again at 15 pitches. To the right of ´The Iron Lung´ Niall Grimes and Ian Hey climbed ´The Fur Trappers´ E4 6a/A1, 17 pitches. Again both stunning lines with off-widths, cracks and hard face climbing. Grimes/Hey also climbed the 13 pitch ´Multiple Buttocks´ E4 6a (The Baroness R/H) and the ten pitch ´Ten Ton Truck´ E1 5b (Campsite Hill). Having climbed The Baroness, the teams explored the area, which seemed to have endless quality possibilities for future expeditions. Greenland is a spectacular place with incredible climbing and beautiful scenery and wildlife. A must for any whale spotters! The expedition members would like to thank The M.E.F., The B.M.C., Beal ropes (Lyon Equipment), Wild Country, Scarpa, Marmot, Helly Hanson, DMM, Mountain Hardware and Red Chili. Tom and Matt playing with pack ice in Nanortalik The Planet-Climbing news editor Matt Heason, is currently in a nearby area with a team of 5 others, and has reported success on one of the team´s objectives.

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