Two of the strongest climbers the UK has produced, young Tyler Landman (16) & slightly older James Pearson (21), have been climbing at a world class level for the last few years but in the last month (and particularly the last week) both have reached new levels in their pursuit of hard bouldering. James has just returned from a trip to Switzerland where he managed to flash another Font 8b (V13), 2 Font 8a+´s(V12) and send another Font 8b(V13). James has now flashed 3 Font 8b´s which is an outstanding effort as there are no confirmed flashes of this grade by any other climber in the world. You can read a full account of James trip on UKClimbing.com Tyler Landman now resides in the U.S. and in the last few weeks he has been on a rampage on both sides of the country. At the end of October after a day in School in Boulder, Colorado he went out and climbed Cage Free SS V12/V13 (Font 8a+/8b). Taking a trip to Bishop in California he sent The Swarm V13 (Font 8b) & Xavier V12/13 (Font 8a+/8b).With a break in School he headed eastwards to visit his brother on the east coast where he climbed, amongst many others, Satan V11 (Font 8a – flashed) & Child of the Storm V13 (Font 8b). Strong fingers run in the family with Tyler´s brother Jeff climbing Sit and Deliver V12 (Font 8a+).
|Tyler on Child of the Storm V13. Photo courtesy of Moonclimbing.com|
Travelling back west, Tyler then went to work on his latest project in Boulder Canyon in Colorado. The line is described by Tyler on moonclimbing.com as: „I can remember walking up to the intimidating line for the first time. The problem tackles a 40 degree steep overhung arête. However you do not climb it on the arête. Instead, you follow a small undercling crack that climbs like a pinch rail. You execute the awkward and complex crux first two moves, at the left base of the arete, then stand up into the undercut rail and make a large move to the midway point, a large sloper and a jug pinch.The feet are lacking the whole way, smeared along the edge of the arete, but especially at this point so the next four moves are campused. You move to a half pad crimper that you match on, tap the wall for momentum and make a large commiting slap to the perfect pinch on the lip. Campus into a jug and then do the topout. The topout is not hard but it is exposed as it is over a dropzone that would most likely result in death.“ After around 5 days split over a number of weeks Tyler made the ascent on a freezing cold afternoon naming the problem Midnight Express and grading it V14 (Font 8b+). You can read more about his ascent and his trips on his blog at moonclimbing.com. With James now heading out to Boulder to spend a few weeks there with Tyler & Si Moore there should be some interesting news coming out of Colorado. James Pearson is sponsored by The North Face, Five Ten and WildCountry. Tyler Landman is sponsored by Moonclimbing