Tommy Caldwell in Aktion
The rumours started flying several days ago at Supertopo.com
that Beth Rodden and Tommy Caldwell had climbed El Cap's Free Nose. It
was slipped out in a post by Werner Braun (Mr. Astroman) on the
Supertopo forums. Now it's official…..well, as posted by Chris
McNamara (Mr. Supertopo himself) via Hans Florine (Mr. El Cap speed
ascent guru). The pair did a 'team free' ascent, each leading about
half the pitches, with Caldwell leading the crux „Changing Corners'
pitch (5.14a) and Rodden doing the stopper 'Great Roof' pitch (5.13c).

The
Free Nose was first climbed by Lynn Hill in 1993, which she then did
all-free-in-a-day in the following year. No-one is really sure of the
grade, it ranges from 5.13b to 5.14a but it has stopped many top
climbers in their tracks especially the 'Great Roof' pitch which is
said to require 'small hands'. Another American Scott Burke did climb
the Free Nose, but on his ascent he top roped, rather than led,
the'Great Roof' pitch.

The debate will no doubt rage about
whether Rodden and Caldwell's ascent is the second or third. What isn't
in doubt is the significance of their achievement, both Beth and Tommy
have climbed El Cap free via Lurking Fear, Dihedral Wall, Muir Wall and
the Salathé, as well as pioneering hard sport routes like
Caldwell's Flex Luthor 5.14d and Rodden's The Optimist 5.14b. You can
view some images of Rodden and Caldwell preparing for their free ascent
of the Nose at Hans Florine's website

And this just in from Chris McNamara as of Oct 17th 9.00pm USA ET, „right now tommy is on the wall trying to climb it free in a day..“

Mick Ryan


Lynn Hill (2004)
Siehe auch:
www.supertopo.com
www.speedclimb.com
Buch:
„Climbing Free“ von Lynn Hill


Fototour: The Nose