Home Schlagworte Clean Climbing

Schlagwort: Clean Climbing

[VIDEO] Mirko Caballero in „Grand Illusion“ (5.13c)

Als der 13jährige Mammut Athlet Mirko Caballero im Frühjahr 2014 "Grand Illusion" kletterte, da wurde er bis an seine Grenze gefordert. Er sagt selbst, dass er die Sicherungen vorher legen musste, denn da er den gesamten Riss piazte, blieb keine Hand zum Legen frei. Mit Legen aller Sicherungen von unten während des Durchstiegs wurde "Grand Illusion" erst zweimal geklettert - vom Japaner Hidetaka Suzuki und vom Kalifornier Tommy Caldwell, eine OnSight Begehung hat es bis heute - 35 Jahre nach der Erstbegehung - immer noch nicht gegeben. "Grand Illusion" ist zwar harte Wirklichkeit geworden - für die meisten Kletterer wird sie immer eine große Illusion bleiben.
Reclimbing the Classics: "Grand Illusion" (5.13c)

Reclimbing the Classics: „Grand Illusion“ (5.13c)

Der Zuckerhut steht nicht nur in Rio, und hohe Tannen gibt es nicht nur im Schwarzwald. California, "gods own land", hat beides - und zwar am Lake Tahoe. Dort sieht es aus wie im Hochschwarzwald, und einen Zuckerhut gibt es auch - nur heißt dieser Zuckerhut "Sugar Loaf", ist ein etwa 100 Meter hoher Granitzapfen zwischen hohen Tannen über einem malerischen See, und es gibt dort "Die große Illusion" zu finden.
Jacopo Larcher climbs "Prinzip Hoffnung" [ 8b/8b+ E9/E10 ]

[VIDEO] Jacopo Larcher climbs „Prinzip Hoffnung“ (8b/8b+ E9/E10)

Bürser Platte, Voralberg, Austria: Jacopo Larcher has made the third ascent of Beat Kammerlander "Prinzip Hoffnung" (8b/+). Beat bolted it in 1997, but in 2009, at the age of 50, he decided to remove the bolts and climb it with trad gear: he made it one of the hardest trad route in the world.
[VIDEO] Wide Boyz II - Slender Gentleman (Trailer)

[VIDEO] Wide Boyz II – Slender Gentleman (Trailer)

After their success climbing the world's hardest offwidth, the Wide Boyz, Pete Whittaker and Tom Randall, embark on their next crack climbing mission. This time their sights are set on the thinner end of the crack climbing spectrum. Their goal is the mighty Cobra Crack in Squamish BC, considered to be the hardest finger crack in the world. First climbed by Canadian 'rock star' Sonnie Trotter after battling it out with Didier Berthod, the route hit the media spotlight in the film First Ascent.
[VIDEO] Crazy Move on Hard Grit E9 First Ascent

[VIDEO] Crazy Move on Hard Grit E9 First Ascent

Committed Volume II showcases five of Britain's best climbers on a spectacular array of hard routes; the terrifying Walk of Life, one of Scotland's toughest winter routes; gritstone's best "last great problem", the youngest female ascent of an E7 and the world's maddest mantel; it's all here.
[VIDEO] These Climbers Are Terrified and You'll Be Terrified for Them

[VIDEO] These Climbers Are Terrified and You'll Be Terrified for Them

Gritstone, known to scientists as siliceous sandstone and to its British climbing devotees as 'God's own rock' is fiendishly difficult to climb. It requires a special, extremely esoteric style that relies on good friction as well as a strong stomach for long run-outs, terrible protection, and horrendous falls. There's a reason they call a proclivity for this sort of climbing 'grit madness'.
[VIDEO] Sarah Watson: Humbled By Yosemite

[VIDEO] Sarah Watson: Humbled By Yosemite

prAna climber Sarah Watson shares her personal journey from falling in love with climbing, to having it all go away due to illness and injury, to coming back with a new appreciation for the simple things she took for granted. Her video, shot in the awe inspiring Yosemite Valley, shares some wonderful lessons that we can all relate to.
[VIDEO] Marmot's Lead Now Tour - Stop 3 - Italy

[VIDEO] Marmot's Lead Now Tour – Stop 3 – Italy

Italy marks stop #3 of Marmot's Lead Now Tour (leadnowtour.org/), a global tour to inspire people through rock climbing and raise $10,000 a month for twelve different non-profit organizations. While in Italy, professional rock climber Paige Claassen raises awareness and money for Save the Children by making the second ascent of Art Attack, an 8c/5.14b slab in the Alps. Learn about the diversity of granite climbing in Italy, the projecting process, and Save the Children's work around the world in Episode #3 - Italy.
[VIDEO] Exposure Volume 1 - Trailer

[VIDEO] Exposure Volume 1 – Trailer

In this first installment of the Exposure Series, we'll follow professional climbers Dave Graham, Nalle Hukkataival, Matt Wilder, Cheyne Lempe, Mason Earle, Angie Payne, and Cody Roth as they seek out and attempt to climb some of the worlds most challenging boulders, mountains, and traditional routes. Experience the emotional hardships, physical pain, and mental battles as these athletes attempt to redefine their boundaries in the world of rock climbing. Their dedication and commitment to the sport will take them from the windy peaks of Patagonia to the harsh desert of Utah.
[VIDEO] First Free Ascent in Yosemite: The Liberty Project

[VIDEO] First Free Ascent in Yosemite: The Liberty Project

A beautiful video which breaks down the FIRST FREE ASCENT of the Southwest face of Liberty Cap in Yosemite by Cedar Wright and Lucho Rivera. After his friend Lucho Rivera was hit by a falling rock which broke his collarbone, Cedar and Lucho returned
[VIDEO] Jenn Flemming on Devils Tower: National Parks Epic Challenge

[VIDEO] Jenn Flemming on Devils Tower: National Parks Epic Challenge

Professional climber Jenn Flemming had always wanted to climb Devils Tower, the otherworldly volcanic formation that was featured in the movie "Close Encounters of the Third Kind." Devils Tower National Monument is located in eastern Wyoming, a day's drive from Jenn's home in Colorado, where she has achieved several first female ascents. Jenn grew up in Massachusetts and has climbed in top U.S. destinations and in China, Iran, South Africa, Bolivia and other countries. She loves climbing that is very technical, and credits her parents with instilling a passion for the outdoors by taking her on many family trips to America's National Parks.
[VIDEO] Alex Honnold in Yosemite: National Parks Epic Challenge

[VIDEO] Alex Honnold in Yosemite: National Parks Epic Challenge

Legendary rock climber Alex Honnold scales Yosemite's Half Dome, El Capitan and Mount Watkins without a rope, defying gravity to ascend the world's most inspiring walls. Alex shares stories of his childhood visits to Yosemite, his travels to the best climbing on the planet, and his deep appreciation for America's National Parks. (NationalParks.org/explore) The breathtaking beauty and epic size of Yosemite are featured, with spectacular video of its waterfalls, valleys, meadows, and ancient giant sequoias. The tranquility of the High Sierras and the quiet grace of Alex Honnold contrast the extreme danger of his free solo climbs. This video was shot before the Rim Fire and other 2013 fires at Yosemite.
Das waren die keepwild! climbing days 2013

Das waren die keepwild! climbing days 2013

Herbsttage wie aus dem Bilderbuch. Goldene Grashänge, ein tiefblauer Himmel und eine glasklare Sicht auf die Walliser 4000er - die Alpe Spluga (1838 m) und die sie umgebenden felsigen Berge zeigten sich während der keepwild! climbing days 2013 von Ihrer besten Seite.
[VIDEO] Tommy Caldwell on "The Dunn-Westbay" (5.14)

[VIDEO] Tommy Caldwell on „The Dunn-Westbay“ (5.14)

Alex Honnold schreibt über das Video: Cool video of personal hero Tommy Caldwell establishing the hardest route on the Diamond. And for those interested, the comments on the video are sort of a funny side story: Cedar Wright had previously posted a much worse version of this video which got quite a bit of hate. By popular demand he recut it as a much more fitting tribute to Tommy's proud effort. Props to both of them for putting good climbing clips out there for us to enjoy.
[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed - Matt Segal

[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed – Matt Segal

While on a close-to-home trip on the Green River, Utah, team climber Matt Segal reflects on why he was initially drawn to trad and crack climbing.
[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed - Daniel Woods

[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed – Daniel Woods

"If we didn't have the failure, what fun would climbing be?" Team climber Daniel Woods reflects on his experience learning how to trad climb on the Green River, Utah with Alex Honnold, Matt Segal, and Renan Ozturk.
[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed - Alex Honnold

[VIDEO] The North Face: Unearthed – Alex Honnold

Alex Honnold a.k.a "No Crack Stands a Chance" made the most of every opportunity on his trip to the Green River, Utah with fellow athletes Daniel Woods, Matt Segal, and Renan Ozturk.
keepwild! climbing days 2013: Kletterspass mit Respekt für Natur und Fels

keepwild! climbing days 2013: Kletterspass mit Respekt für Natur und Fels

Vom 19. - 22. September 2013 finden im Tessin die zweiten "keepwild! climbing days" statt. Oberhalb des Maggiatals klettern Abenteurer in traditionellem Stil. mountain wilderness organisiert ein Kletterevent und sensibilisiert damit Bergsportler für einen respektvollen Umgang mit der Natur und dem Fels.
[VIDEO] Matt Wilder in "Eye of the Beholder" (5.13d)

[VIDEO] Matt Wilder in „Eye of the Beholder“ (5.13d)

In this excerpt from his film "Projects" La Sportiva Athlete Matt Wilder describes his new traditionally protected route in the New River Gorge: Eye of the Beholder (5.13d).
[VIDEO] Erste Wiederholung der Longhope Route (E11

[VIDEO] Erste Wiederholung der Longhope Route (E11, 7a?), St John's Head, Hoy

James McHaffie and Ben Bransby have very quickly made the second free ascent of Dave Macleod's Longhope Direct on St John's Head, Hoy, Scotland. Having visited Hoy last year to have a look at the crux pitch, Caff managed to redpoint the crux pitch in very poor weather conditions, and made plans to return this year, with Ben Bransby. The pair successfully making their ascent on the 25th May.
[VIDEO] Daniel Jung

[VIDEO] Daniel Jung, Nico und Olivier Favresse bei Erstbegehungen in Norwegen

Black Diamond athletes Daniel Jung and Nico and Olivier Favresse are always on the hunt for first ascents, and their most recent search led them to Norway where they found a stunning, overhanging wall laced with cracks. The trio's FA pursuit involved skin-shredding jams, mega whippers, and daily shenanigans, including scooter jumping and swapping tooth-brushing tips.
[VIDEO] 35 mit Derek Craig

[VIDEO] 35 mit Derek Craig

Das Video "35", das in Zusammenarbeit von Arc'teryx, Duct Tape Then Beer und dem Drehbuchautor Brendan Leonard entsanden ist, feiert die großen und kleinen Freuden des Kletterlebens in einem rund sechsminütigen Film. Derek Criag hat sich für ein besonderes Geburtstagsfest entschieden: er wollte 35 Routen klettern - eine für jedes Lebensjahr. Daneben macht er sich so seine Gedanken...
[VIDEO] London Wall (E5 6a) in Turnschuhen

[VIDEO] London Wall (E5 6a) in Turnschuhen

Der Five Ten Guide Tennie ist bekannt als der "Kletterer" im Bereich der Approachschuhe. Tom Randall und Pete Whittaker, die beiden Risskletterspezialisten aus Großbritannien, haben sich die 2013er Version des Guide Tennie geschnappt und dorthin gebracht, wo sich der Guide Tennie zu Hause fühlt. Herausgekommen ist dabei ein sehenswerter Streifen über eine Begehung des Megaklassikers "London Wall" (E5 6a) im Peak District.
[VIDEO] Greenpointing and Trad in the Frankenjura

[VIDEO] Greenpointing and Trad in the Frankenjura

The term redpoint or rotpunkt originated in the Frankenjura and is now used at sport climbing crags around the world. What is meant by greenpointing a route is probably a lot less familiar to climbers. It's used on the Bavarian limestone crags to describe climbing an existing bolted route without clipping the bolts, simply relying on trad gear, such as nuts and cams, for protection.
[VIDEO] Mammut Teamtrip Peak District 2010

[VIDEO] Mammut Teamtrip Peak District 2010

Zwar ist das Video schon ein wenig älter, aber dennoch absolut sehenswert. Gezeigt wird ein Mammut Teamtrip in den Grit des britischen Peak Districts mit schönen Kameraflügen und interessanten Klettereien, die teilweise ein wenig zu kurz kommen. Highlights sind für mich sicherlich die Sequenzen mit der Legende Johnny Dawes und der Gastauftritt von Mary Woodbridge - diesmal leider ohne Dackel Daisy...

TIPP DER REDAKTION

Bronze für Jakob Schubert beim Boulder Weltcup 2019 in Wujiang (CHN) (c) KVÖ, Roman Krajnik, Nikita Tsarev

Bronze für Jakob Schubert beim Boulder Weltcup 2019 in Wujiang (CHN)

Vom 3. - 5. Mai fanden in Wujiang (CHN) der dritte Speed Weltcup und der vierte Boulder Weltcup der Saison 2019 statt. Jakob Schubert fand in beeindruckender Manier zurück in die Erfolgsspur.

PRODUKTE

'Nur der Berg ist mein Boss' von Christoph Hainz (c) Tyrolia-Verlag

Buchvorstellung: „Nur der Berg ist mein Boss“ von Christoph Hainz

Das Leben des Südtiroler Extremkletterers und Bergführers Christoph Hainz ist unmittelbar mit den Bergen seiner Heimat verbunden. Aufgewachsen in einfachsten Verhältnissen auf einem Bergbauernhof im Mühlwalder Tal, gilt er heute als einer der vielseitigsten und unkonventionellsten Allround-Alpinisten seiner Generation.

PANORAMA

Michael Füchsle: Vom Rollstuhlfahrer an den Felsen (c) Archiv Füchsle

Michael Füchsle: Vom Rollstuhlfahrer an den Felsen

Der ehemalige Kletterprofi Michael Füchsle hat sich nach lebensbedrohlichen Krankheiten wieder zurückgekämpft und seine Leidenschaft im Jahr 2013 wieder zu einem festen Bestandteil seines Lebens gemacht.