Boulder WC report #3 – Vail

Udo Neumann's WC-analysis:Perfect bouldering conditions, an impressively high wall and very interesting route setting – Vail felt like a Highlight of the 2010 Bouldering World Cup so far! To keep things interesting, Kilian Fischhuber had a painful but (hopefully) harmless accident just before the comp. It would have been interesting to compare a 100% fit Kilian to the impressive Daniel Woods on that wall. Daniel was the only one to complete problem #2 in the finals and was the undisputed winner. For the future, lets all hope for a Ondra-Woods-Fischhuber-Hori conference with Jernej Kruder (wow, what a performance!!!) and some of the strong British and French boys thrown in for comparision!Three of last years' strongest are not showing their true potential yet, if Jonas Baumann, Gabri Moroni and Rustam Gelmanov wake up, the Boulder WC will pick up even more steam.When in Vienna, everybody thought the Asian girls' patience and precission was the only key to success, in Vail things were quite different. Problems were burly and you had to move fast. Anna Stöhr is in a class of her own in that style, using momentum like none of the other girls. She didn't win the comp because of a slip on a slab and marks the other end of the spectrum from the Asian style. Right in the middle style wise sits female winner Chloé Graftiaux who climbs equally well in all styles and has the least weaknesses. Fingers crossed for up-to-the task route setting when the Johnson-Stöhr-Graftiaux-Wurm-Kim-Noguchi-Puccio-Oda etc. etc. conference takes place since the female events seem to be more determined by the quality of the route setting! Whoever route setter wants to be voted “route setter of the season” will be judged by his Girls problems!

Boulder WC report #3 – Vail #1© Udo Neumann, Jun 2010

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