Lancs Boys Raid the Peak

Adam Lincoln repeating Cool Moon, E7 6c, Curbar Edge, The Peak District

Taking advantage of the fine weather on Sunday afternoon, Adam Lincoln and Ryan Pasquil made impressive ascents of “Cool Moon” on the famous Moon Butress (aka “End of the Affair butress”) of Curbar, in the Peak District.First climbed (and graded E6 6c) by Daniel and Dominic Lee, with pre-placed and pre-clipped runners in the neighbouring “Moon Walk”, this 1981 test piece lasted until an on form Thomas De Gay dispensed with the side runners (used on all previous ascents) and headpointed it, to give “Cool Moon” it´s first proper ascent in 1999, giving the route a new grade of E7 6c. Adam Lincoln, no stranger to the Hard Grit “game”, top roped the line before comitting himself to the headpoint, gaining a very creditable second (possibly the third?) ascent. Although Thomas De Gay chose to solo the line, Adam placed a peanut to protect the comitting cruxy start, as well as a dodgy cam in a higher break/slot. One of the current batch of young climbers displaying top form on some of Britains more dangerous routes (as well as some steely boulder problems!), Ryan Pasquil was next to up on “Cool Moon”. Having watched his mate dispatch the route, Ryan had the confidence to go for the flash, using the same gear as Adam. Ryan´s succesful ascent proves further that he is one to watch this winter, having already made several on sights of E7´s and possibly the first ever flash of a grtistone E8 with his ascent of “Countdown to Disaster” in August this year. Last weekend Ryan also made an impressive on sight ascent of John Dunne´s 1986 route “Life Assurance”, E6 6b, at Burbage South.