Litz on a Warpath in U.S. James Litz has climbed a possible V15, 8c at Catle Rocks in Idaho. The problem called Warpath at over 30 moves long, it is a very different problem than another recent V15 in the U.S. – Daniel Woods “Jade” in RMNP. Jade received 2 quick repeats from Tyler Landman & Paul Robinson and it will be interesting to see how quickly Warpath gets repeated as it´s a bit further from the bouldering homelands of the U.S. Warpath itself starts with a V11 section of slapping small edges, then moves into a traversing problem that is very reminiscent of the classic Hueco Tanks V14 testpiece Esperanza. From here, it then goes directly into a three move V10 section involving a low percentage deadpoint to a small irregular edge, followed by a sketchy V8 on a shallow layback feature.James Litz may not be a name many people recognize but its more to Litz keeping a low profile than his achievements. Famed for incredible finger strength, Litz made the second ascent of Esperanza in 2004 Souce: Momentum MVM Ondra Fined by Czech Climbing Association The Czech Mountaineering union (CHS) have published a new decision about Adam Ondra (the 15 year old wonder kid who has climbed 9a this yeart) about his usage of chalk (magnesium) at Czech traditional sandstone areas where it is forbidden. He was originally docked 10% of his grant from the CHS but went to appeal with the new penalty being a suspension from CHS activities for 1 year if he breaks the rules again within one year. The sandstone area is the famous elbe valley where strict local ethics mean no chalk use and no metal protection – this includes nuts, cams, hex´s etc.. instead using knotted ropes for protection or very spaced ring bolts. And you thought that British climbing ethics and the BMC where tough? Source: Kairn
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