Moro and Barmasse, Beka Brakai Chhok

by UKC News Summit Ridge (click to enlarge) Italian alpinists Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse have made the first ascent, in fast alpine style, of Beka Brakai Chhok (6,940m) in the Batura area of the Karakoram. Their original objective was the unclimbed Batura II (7,762m), but they changed objectives when they discovered a Korean team attempting Batura II. After a warm-up, acclimatisation climb on Batokshi Peak 6,050 m (alpine style in 9 hours 30 minutes: see video: here)and some bouldering in their base camp, they applied and got a permit to climb Beka Brakai Chhok. Beka Brakai Chhok had been attempted before most recently by New Zealand woman Pat Deavoll ( and Malcolm Bass (UK) who earlier this year were defeated by snow fall and heavy cloud, and a ,” (summit) ridge steep and corniced and the snow becoming more and more unconsolidated to the point we could no longer build anchors.” Simone Moro and Hervè Barmasse took less than 48 hours to climb Beka Brakai Chhok from their Base Camp on the Baltar Glacier. Moro had this to say about their ascent, “It´s been an infinite ride. In light of the previous attempts on the peak, the climb left us extremely satisfied and reassured about our skills.Alpinism is not just death, tragedy, survival and heroism.While we don´t expect our climb to get the headlines of Pakistan´s 8000ers, we hope it will serve as a reminder to both those passionate about mountaineering and also the general public.A reminder that mountaineers like us and many others climb mountains to live, to enjoy, to grow. And to accept the verdicts of life and sometimes also of fate; without arguing or lacking respect toward those who share the same value: the value of life. ” Full report with photographs: More: Simone Moro´s North Face profile More: Hervè Barmasse North Face profile: