The Promise – E10 7a

At last the weather took a turn for the better yesterday. Whilst those not into the outdoors complained of a bitterly cold wind it seemed that anybody and everybody with a passion for fresh air headed out for the day, with car parks full to capacity at all the major crags in the Peak. James Pearson took full advantage with the first ascent of one his projects, the ?last great problem? at Burbage North. The Promise tackles the short, but tenuous arête to the right of Superstition on the Living In Oxford block. At 8 or 9 metres James reckons it would be possible to climb as a high high-ball. However, having taken numerous falls on top rope over the 6 or 7 days he spent working the route he opted to lead it, placing a solitary piece of gear ? a dubious slider that stayed in with a tug, but didn?t inspire any more confidence than that. The psychological reassurance of crap gear was enough for James to climb the route without pads to protect the nasty landing. In his words, ?It felt easy when actually leading it?. We asked him how hard he thought it was? Harder than Equilibrium, both physically and mentally, Font 8A climbing above a poor landing. E10 7a. What next for James? He?d like to get fitter and have a bash at Rhapsody (Dave MacLeod?s E11) when it dries out, and he?d spent time on ?The Groove? at Cratcliffe, managing all the moves, just needing to string them together. Then there?s a potential E10 in a quarry near his house in Matlock, and he?s keen to hit the road and go tradding around the UK ? Dyers Lookout, Sharpnose, Scotland?