World Bouldering News

Having reported at the end of last month that John Gaskins had climbed the worlds fourth V15 / Font 8c, the last month has seen several more problems receive this magical grade. Some are newly established problems, and some are existing problems that have been recently upgraded by those who climbed the first ascents. Currently there are at least 7 problems given this grade (not in chronological order):-?Dreamtime? in Cresciano, Switzerland. First ascent Fred Nicole.?Balck Eagle Sit Start? in Rocklands, South Africa. First ascent Fred Nicole.?Un-named problem? in the Magic Wood, Austria. First ascent Bernd Zangerl.?Viva La Evolution? in Alm, Austria. First ascent Bernd Zangerl.?Walk Away Sit Start? in Lancashire, UK. First ascent John Gaskins.?Banshousha? in Ogawayama Crystal Slab, Japan. First ascent Tokio Muroi.?Gossip? in Frankenjura, Germany. First ascent Marcus Bock.So far only Dreamtime has been repeated (by Bernd Zangerl, Dave Graham and Chris Sharma), and therefore confirmed at the grade.Also on the bouldering front, reports are filtering through that Anthony Lamiche (from France) has flashed Chris Sharma?s classic test piece ?Mandala? at Bishop, USA. Un-graded by Sharma, the problem was originally thought to be somewhere in the region of Font 8b/+ but a whole host of quick repeats has settled the grade somewhere nearer the 8a/+ mark. Still, a very impressive flash whatever the grade!Also at the Pollen Grains, Bishop, Lamiche made a fast (two day) ascent of Dave Graham?s ?Spectre? 8b/+.On the subject of Bishop, stay tuned for news on the star studded bouldering event currently underway there. Some of the more notable names present include Liv Sansov, Josune Bereziartu, Lisa Rands,Airlie Andreson, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham, Pedro Pons, Jerome Mayer, Jason Kehl, Joe Kinder, Luke Parady, Daniel Dulac…….Thanks to and Mick Ryan