We've just received great news from Osp. On 26th Feburary, one of the leading Polish climbers, Lukasz Dudek (26) led a classic line Martin Krpan 9a at Misja Pec. Originally the route was done by Jure Golob in 2001.
It was an exceptional event in Polish climbing. That was the first time a Polish climber did a 9a route abroad – for years it had been the dream of the best Polish climbers! Thanks to this achievement Lukasz has significantly narrowed the distance to the world elite. The systematic increase of Lukasz's level and ease with which he led the route show that it's been only the first step in his adventure with the 9th grade.
Fotostrecke: Dem Polen Lukasz Dudek gelingt Martin Krpan (9a)
Martin Krpan is a combination of two lines: Strelovod 8c and Konec Mira 8c/c+. The latter one Lukasz led at the end of January 2009. The success is especially impressive due to the fact that it was achieved really fast – after only six days of attempts. As Lukasz remarked: „An easy stroll, I felt in control.“ Also perfect conditions facilitated the effort – dry weather and 10°C.
It's hard to imagine a better opening of the season 2009 for Lukasz. Apart from the Slovenian classics Martin Krpan 9a and Konec Mira 8c/c+, in January 2009 Lukasz did also Alien Carnage 8c+ in the French area Castillon and two 8c in Spain, Atizol in Margalef and Pintoretta in Sella. Up to now the score of Lukasza starts with a list: 4x 8c+ ,10x 8c and 1x 9a.
Lukasz Dudek is currently listed on the 9th place of the world ranking of 8a.nu.
It's worth reminding that on 14th December 2008 a „Polish 9a“ (VI.8 in Polish scale) was led by Bogdan Rokosz (La Sportiva, VI4, Magazyn Górski). Bogdan opened a route called Sprawa Honoru in Mamutowa Cave (Kluczwoda Valley). Most probably that was the third VI.8 route in Poland.