When Matty Hong sets out to accomplish something, like sending two 5.15a routes in Spain, there's nothing that can stop him from attaining his goal. During his spring trip to Spain, Matty applied himself to no end to make quick work of La Rambla in Siurana and Joe Mama in Oliana.
It's been a tough year for Hazel Findlay, recovering from shoulder surgery and dealing with the frustration and impatience that goes with serious rehabilitation. Hazel spent most of her winter in Siurana, Spain, sport climbing and getting her shoulder back to strength.
"The moves, the length, the obviousness of the path—it was a king line, or rather, a queen line ... I felt confident a send would come after fairly little effort ... But La Reina Mora is a fearsome queen who demands respect. When in the beginning I ... stood in awe of her beauty, now I looked up at her with resentment for the way she’d exposed my weaknesses and insecurities."
Just after the send of the route "Estado Crítico", first world's 9a onsight, Alex Megos talks about Siurana and "Jungle Speed", a 9a in "La Capella" sector.
Breaking into a new sport climbing grade can be an incredibly difficult challenge, but consolidating that breakthrough can be even harder. Having climbed his first 9a+/5.15a "Realization/Biographie" in 2014, EpicTV Shop climber Jonathan Siegrist set his sights on another classic of the grade: Spain's "La Rambla."
Magnus Midtbø crushes the short and powerful Jungle Speed in Siurana in February 2015. The intro comments are made by Martin Mobråten who was the first Norwegian to climb the route a few weeks earlier. The video is from the actual ascent but a few clips are taken from another attempt as Henning Wang had to change positions.
In this episode we're back with Alex Megos for the final part of our interview and today we're asking Alex to tell the story of his best known achievement - becoming the first person in the world to onsight 9a. An accomplishment that would have been unthinkable less than a decade ago.