Hard trad by Heason

Planet Climbing reports: “Ben Heason has started the new year as he finished the last one, as the most prolific grit climber of the moment. On the 2nd of January he made a visit to Curbar and made the fourth ascent of Mood Madness. Originally climbed by Ron Fawcett in 1987 and graded E8 6c, it has since been climbed by Dany Honeyman and Dave McCleod. Ron said of the route ´I could only get it one go in fifteen on a rope. I thought that Adrenaline would get me up; so I solo´d it.´ Ben flashed the route, having seen Honeyman´s ascent on video, opting to lead it and place a cam high up to protect the finishing moves. He thought the grade was more like E7 6c. On the same day he flashed Slackers, E6 6b, again having seen it done on video, he headpointed End Of The Affair, E8 6c, and onsighted Ulyses or Bust, E5 6b.” Ben is currently ranked #30 in the bouldering and #46 in the routes rankings. We´re thinking about a way to get trad routes into the scorecard system, but it´s kinda hard to compare ´em…

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