Major Solo Link in Bugaboos

Fresh after his highly impressive Squamish link-up (see planetFear news here), Matt Maddaloni ventured into the Bugaboos and ticked another massive link-up by climbing 5 multipitch routes to 5 different summits, all solo. The report below of the linkup is from Leaving the Applebee Campground at 4:30 a.m., Maddaloni first onsighted the McTech Arête (III 5.10a) by headlamp. Sunrise hit him as he raced up his next route, the classic Northeast Ridge (IV 5.7) of Bugaboo Spire. After descending the Kain Route, he cramponed across the glacier and then climbed up and down Pigeon Spire?s West Ridge (II 5.4).By mid-morning, he had traversed around to the west side of the Howser Towers, where he soloed the classic Beckey-Chouinard Route (V 5.10a) of South Howser Tower and then rappelled the Northeast Face. At 5 p.m., he started up the Kraus-McCarthy Route (IV 5.8+) on the West Face of Snowpatch Spire. Rapping off the tower at dusk, he was back at the campground by 8 p.m., fifteen and a half hours after starting. In all, the Bugaboos link-up totaled approximately 50 pitches. The Bugaboos is one of Canada´s premier alpine rock destinations and is located in the core of the Purcell Mountains, on the border between British Columbia and Alberta.

Pigeon Spire, Bugaboos. Photo by