More New Routes in Alaska by Mike ´Twid´ Turner

by Mick Ryan Welshman´s Peak Mike ´Twid´ Turner can´t get enough of Alaska. He has just returned from his fifth trip this April just gone. Twid, a mountain guide from North Wales, climbing with Simon Hitchens and Phil Jeffery, opened up several new routes in Alaska´s remote Kitchatna Spires. Based on the Tatina Glacier, which is only accessible by an hours plane ride from Talkeetna (the nearest town), the team succeeded in climbing three new routes upto 1,000m in length….even christening one virgin spire, Welshman´s Peak. Biff Bash Bosh! ED, 900m, 19 Pitches, (Scottish VII E1)Cool Couloire D, 800m, 15 pitches, (Scottish V) The Whack and Dangle Sculpture D, 1,000m, 14 pitches, (Scottish V) Although the major peaks in this area have been climbed Twid told “The area has been untapped by ice climbers in the past. The potential is fantastic for middle to hard grade winter routes. There are masses of 800m unclimbed, amazing rock walls and buttress. Would suite an alpine style. If you do not like gnarly weather and conditions go elsewhere. As good as Patagonia, but with nobody around. But best to leave it a few years though ´till Twid´s been again!” You can read a full report at Twid´s website, a previous trip, Twid, climbing with Dai Lampard and Stuart McAleese established Perfect Storm (VI 5.11d A1, 1000m, Lampard-McAleese-Turner, 2004) on the east face of Mt. Nevermore. There is a despatch at Alpinist magazine´s website, Last week Twid also climbed a new route with his wife, Louise (also a fellow mountain guide) at Gogarth on the Yellow Wall. Twid posted details on the forums. You can read about it at Two other Brits were operating in Alaska in April, Oliver Metherell and James Mehigan climbing in the Ruth Gorge established a new route, Tower Couloir ED, Scottish VII, A1, 500m, between the Werewolf and Hut Towers, the route was climbed in a 23 hour continuous push with falling snow and marginal ice condition. Oliver and James are part of Super7 whose aim is to pioneer a new climbing route on every one of the seven continents, and they are doing well. You can check their progress at