New 8a+ on High Tor, Hooligan 8c gets repeated

by Mick Ryan Jon Clark On Sunday 4th November Jon Clark, 23, of Matlock freed the aid route Limelight on High Tor. This was previously a project of Malcolm Taylors´ who nearly freed it in 1992, and suggested a possible grade of 8c. The route, as yet unnamed, climbs the big roof to the left of Castellan, on the left side of the main face, and then onto a short pocketed wall above to the Castellan belay. Jon told us that, “The grade however may differ depending on how tall you are, as the roof has a big span move on it. I felt that 8a+ was about right.” In other Peak limestone news, Paul Smitton has done the second ascent of Steve Dunning´s Hooligan 8c at Raven Tor. This route starts with a hard and seldom climbed boulder problem start given Font 8a+ and then finishes with 8b climbing to its anchors. On Grit, a Mr Justice Cocklecarrot reports that Czech climber Michal Madera made a ground-up ascent of Narcissus, E6 6b at Froggat last Sunday. You can read a first hand report, comment and view photos at this thread